Introduction
A lop-eared rabbit cannot wear a close hood unless the pattern leaves space for both ears. This pink hooded bunny amigurumi pattern solves that structural problem with a separate face-framing hood and uncovered floppy ears. You will use super-bulky chenille yarn, a 4 mm hook and 16 mm eyes to make a 26 cm figure at intermediate level. The removable-looking clothing construction also makes damaged dress sections easier to replace.
The Design: What Makes the Hooded Bunny Different
The head reaches 42 stitches because the photographed rabbit has a face wider than its 36-stitch body. That difference leaves room for a raised muzzle, large eyes and cheek patches without flattening the profile. Two long ears attach behind the hood edge rather than passing through narrow openings; this keeps the ear bases stable while preserving the layered appearance. The hood is built as a shallow cap, then extended around the face with a worked edging. Its decorative round ears identify the garment as a bear-ear hood rather than part of the rabbit. A separate flared dress covers the body seam and adds lower-body width. The most common error in a velvet bunny crochet pattern is overstuffing the muzzle. The maker then loses the small nose bridge and pushes the eyes apart. This chenille rabbit amigurumi uses controlled stuffing and fixed placement marks to prevent that distortion.
Project Info at a Glance
| Skill Level | Time | Finished Size | Hook | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Intermediate | 8–11 hours | Approximately 26 cm | 4 mm | Display, nursery shelf or supervised play |
Size and hook reference: Ravelry Bunny by Amigurumis Atina.
Materials and Tools
Yarn
- Cream white — super-bulky chenille or velvet — approximately 110 g — Himalaya Dolphin Baby, Premier Parfait Chunky or a comparable plush yarn.
- Pastel pink — super-bulky chenille or velvet — approximately 90 g — use the same yarn line as the cream shade.
- Pink embroidery yarn — DK or worsted — less than 2 g for the nose and mouth.
- Strong sewing yarn — cream and pink — for high-stress attachment points.
Tools
- 4 mm crochet hook
- Two 16 mm safety eyes
- Polyester stuffing, approximately 90–110 g
- Yarn needle with a large eye
- Locking stitch markers
- Dressmaker pins
- Scissors
Safety eyes can present a choking risk and should be replaced with embroidered eyes when the finished rabbit is intended for a child younger than three or for a pet.
Abbreviations
MR — magic ring; sc — single crochet; inc — two single crochets in one stitch; dec — decrease; sl st — slip stitch; ch — chain; BLO — back loop only; FLO — front loop only; hdc — half double crochet; st/sts — stitch/stitches.
An invisible decrease is worked through the front loops of the next two stitches before completing one single crochet.
Pattern — Step by Step
Work in a continuous spiral unless a row is marked as joined. Place the marker in the first stitch of every round.
Head
Yarn: cream white — shaping adapted from standard six-stitch amigurumi math and the 42-stitch bunny head published by The Bunny Studio.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
R8–R14: sc around (42)
R15: (5 sc, dec) ×6 (36)
R16: (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
R17: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
Insert the eyes between R11 and R12 with eight visible stitches between the inner eye edges. Add moderate stuffing around the eye posts.
R18: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R19: (1 sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R20: dec ×6 (6)
Finish stuffing before R20. The lower face should remain compressible enough to accept the muzzle.
Fasten off. Leave a 20 cm tail and close the final six front loops.
Muzzle
Yarn: cream white — standard flat-circle construction.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: sc around (18)
Add a thin layer of stuffing. Do not make a hard dome.
Fasten off. Leave a 25 cm sewing tail.
Body
Yarn: cream white — medium 36-stitch plateau selected for the photographed proportions.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7–R11: sc around (36)
R12: (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
R13: sc around (30)
R14: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
R15: sc around (24)
R16: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R17: sc around (18)
R18: (1 sc, dec) ×6 (12)
Stuff the lower body firmly and the neck area more densely. Keep the top opening flat enough to sit against the head.
Fasten off. Leave a 35 cm tail for attaching the body to the head.
Arms or Front Legs — Make 2
Yarn: cream white.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3–R5: sc around (12)
R6: (1 sc, dec) ×4 (8)
R7–R10: sc around (8)
Stuff the paw through R5 only. Leave the upper half unstuffed so it can lie against the sleeve.
Flatten the opening and work 4 sc through both layers. Fasten off with a 25 cm tail.
Back Legs — Make 2
Yarn: cream white.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4–R6: sc around (18)
R7: (1 sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R8–R9: sc around (12)
R10: dec ×6 (6)
Stuff firmly before R10, concentrating filling toward the front of the foot.
Fasten off. Close the opening and leave a 30 cm attachment tail.
Floppy Bunny Ears — Make 2
Yarn: cream white — long-ear shaping based on published bunny patterns that widen before flattening at the base.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4–R10: sc around (18)
R11: (1 sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R12–R16: sc around (12)
R17: (1 sc, dec) ×4 (8)
Do not stuff. Flatten each ear, then pinch the base so the outer edges overlap by one stitch.
Fasten off. Leave a 35 cm tail for sewing.
Hood
Yarn: pastel pink — custom fitted cap based on the completed 42-stitch head.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
R8–R13: sc around (42)
Stop working in the spiral. The next rows form the back and sides while leaving the face open.
Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc in next 34 sts (34)
Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc across (34)
Row 16: ch 1, turn, dec, 30 sc, dec (32)
Row 17: ch 1, turn, sc across (32)
Row 18: ch 1, turn, dec, 28 sc, dec (30)
Place the hood on the head. The opening should frame the eyes and muzzle without covering either eye post.
Do not fasten off. Work one round of sc around the entire face opening, placing two sc in each lower corner. Join with sl st. Work a second edging round in BLO. Fasten off and weave in the tail.
Round Hood Ears — Make 2
Yarn: make one inner piece in pink and one outer piece in cream for each ear.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
Make four circles in total: two cream and two pink. Place one pink circle against one cream circle.
Join the layers with cream yarn by working 24 sc through both pieces. Fold the lower quarter inward. Fasten off with a 30 cm tail.
Dress
Yarn: pastel pink — worked from the neckline downward.
R1: ch 24, join without twisting, sc around (24)
R2: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R3: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R4–R6: sc around (36)
R7: work in FLO, (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
R8: (6 sc, inc) ×6 (48)
R9–R11: hdc around (48)
R12: reverse sc or regular sc around (48)
Test the dress over the body before closing the neck join. The hem should stop above the feet.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail on the inside.
Short Sleeves — Make 2
Yarn: pastel pink.
R1: ch 12, join, sc around (12)
R2: (1 sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R3–R4: sc around (18)
R5: (1 sc, dec) ×6 (12)
Slide each sleeve over an arm before attaching the arm to the body.
Fasten off. Leave a 20 cm tail to tack the upper sleeve edge to the dress.
Cheek Patches — Make 2
Yarn: pastel pink — flat circles.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
Fasten off. Leave a 20 cm sewing tail. Flatten each patch before placement.
Neck Bow
Yarn: pastel pink.
Row 1: ch 9, sc in second ch from hook and across (8)
Rows 2–4: ch 1, turn, sc across (8)
Fasten off. Wrap a separate 20 cm strand around the middle four times, knot it at the back and retain the strand ends for attachment.
Hood Drawstrings — Make 2
Yarn: pastel pink.
Ch 28. Starting in the second chain from the hook, sl st through all 27 chains.
Fasten off. Leave an 8 cm tail at each end. Knot or roll the lower end into a compact chenille pompom and secure it with sewing yarn.
Assembly
- Center the body beneath the head and sew through all 12 neck stitches twice, keeping the face aligned with the widest point of the body.
- Pin the muzzle over head R12–R17. Sew around its edge while adding small amounts of stuffing before closing the last three stitches.
- Embroider a pink triangular nose across two stitches at the muzzle center, then add one vertical stitch and two short mouth lines.
- Sew the cheek patches beside the lower outer edges of the eyes. Keep their upper edges level with the nose.
- Attach the long ears behind the head between R3 and R7. Angle each base outward so the ears hang beside the hood rather than behind the body.
- Fit the hood over the crown. Tack its back to the head at four points, then attach the round hood ears symmetrically near hood R5.
- Dress the body before attaching the limbs. Tack the neckline to body R16 so the garment does not rotate.
- Place each arm inside a sleeve and sew it to the upper body beneath the head. Tack each sleeve to the dress with two hidden stitches.
- Sew the feet to the lower front of the body with approximately three stitches between their inner edges. Check that both soles touch the same horizontal surface.
- Attach the drawstrings at the lower hood corners and sew the bow over their upper ends. Hide every yarn tail inside a stuffed section.
The completed figure should measure approximately 26 cm from the foot base to the top of the decorative hood ears.
7 Technical Tips
- Stitch-marker drift: Chenille can hide the first stitch and move the facial center several stitches sideways. Replace the marker after every completed round rather than carrying it loosely through two rounds.
- Soft neck failure: A lightly filled neck allows the 42-stitch head to tilt forward. Pack the upper 2 cm of the body more firmly than the belly before sewing.
- Visible decrease ridges: Standard decreases create horizontal gaps in velvet fabric. Work every head and body decrease through the front loops only.
- Late eye placement: Eye backs cannot be installed after the head opening reaches 12 stitches. Fit both 16 mm eyes immediately after R17 and confirm their spacing before stuffing the cheeks.
- Velvet tension changes: Pulling the working yarn too hard can strip chenille fibres from the core. Keep each loop approximately the diameter of the 4 mm hook shaft.
- Uneven limb placement: Sewing one limb without reference can produce a visible height difference. Pin both arms and both feet at the same time, then measure their attachment rounds before stitching.
- Loose tail weaving: A short chenille tail can work free because the fibres compress. Leave at least 20 cm for sewn parts and pass the tail through the stuffed section in three different directions.
Conclusion
Check the hood opening before securing the final attachment points; its lower edge should sit below the cheeks without pulling the ears forward. Next, photograph the rabbit from the front and side so differences in foot height, ear angle or dress rotation become visible. Correct those points before trimming the remaining yarn tails. Share the finished pink hooded bunny amigurumi pattern project on Pinterest and post the side view on Instagram with #PinkHoodBunny. Record the yarn brand, hook size and finished height in the caption because chenille thickness changes the result substantially. Which attachment position gave your rabbit the cleaner silhouette: ears beside the hood or partly behind its back edge?
