Introduction
A rabbit sitting inside a carrot has one structural problem: the ears must rise above the foliage while the paws stay visible over the orange rim. This bunny amigurumi crochet pattern uses worsted yarn, a 4 mm hook and 12 mm eyes for a compact cream rabbit. A deep carrot basket, seven green leaves, pink cheeks and two front paws complete the approximately 30–34 cm display.
The Design: What Makes This Carrot Bunny Different
The bunny uses a 36-stitch round head because the face must remain dominant even when framed by bulky carrot leaves. Its body also reaches 36 stitches but is almost completely hidden inside the orange container. Long unstuffed ears rise vertically between the green foliage, while the front paws sit against the rim and establish the seated pose. The basket itself is wider than the rabbit body and uses a 54-stitch circular base with straight walls. Seven thick green leaves rise from the rear interior rather than emerging from the bottom like a conventional carrot toy. That distinction makes this bunny in carrot crochet pattern function as a display scene rather than a rabbit carrying a vegetable. One common construction error is raising the orange rim too high. It should stop below the paws and leave the entire face unobstructed.
Project Information at a Glance
| Skill Level | Time | Finished Size | Hook | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Intermediate | 12–16 hours | Approx. 30–34 cm overall | 4 mm bunny / 5 mm basket | Spring display, Easter decor and market pieces |
Materials and Tools
Yarn
- Warm cream — worsted/Aran yarn — approximately 80–100 g — bunny head, body, ears and paws
- Carrot orange — bulky/chunky yarn — approximately 180–220 g — basket body, rim and decorative cords
- Leaf green — bulky/chunky yarn — approximately 90–120 g — seven carrot-top leaves
- Blush pink — worsted yarn scrap — cheek patches
- Dark brown — smooth embroidery yarn — nose and mouth
Tools
- 4.0 mm crochet hook for the bunny
- 5.0 mm crochet hook for basket and leaves
- Two 12 mm black safety eyes
- Polyester toy stuffing
- Large-eye yarn needle
- Locking stitch markers
- Dressmaking pins
- Scissors
- Optional plastic-canvas disc for the basket base
Work the bunny at a dense gauge so the stuffing stays behind the stitches. The basket needs less compression but should still be firm enough to hold its cylindrical shape without folding around the rabbit.
Abbreviations
- MR — magic ring
- sc — single crochet
- inc — two single crochet stitches in one stitch
- dec — decrease over two stitches
- sl st — slip stitch
- ch — chain
- hdc — half double crochet
- dc — double crochet
- BLO — back loop only
- FLO — front loop only
An invisible decrease is worked through the front loops of the following two stitches before those loops are completed together as one single crochet.
Pattern — Step by Step
Work the bunny pieces in continuous spirals unless a section states otherwise. Mark the first complete stitch of every round and check each bracketed count before moving to the next round.
Head
Yarn: warm cream — standard six-stitch amigurumi sphere math.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) × 6 (36)
R7–R12: sc around (36)
R13: (4 sc, dec) × 6 (30)
Insert the 12 mm safety eyes between R9 and R10 with approximately eight visible stitches between the stems. Check both eye positions from the front before locking the washers.
R14: (3 sc, dec) × 6 (24)
R15: (2 sc, dec) × 6 (18)
R16: (sc, dec) × 6 (12)
R17: dec × 6 (6)
Stuff after R13. Add small pieces around the eye washers before filling the crown and cheeks.
Fasten off. Leave a 25 cm tail, pass it through the front loops of the last six stitches and pull the opening closed.
Body
Yarn: warm cream.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) × 6 (36)
R7–R11: sc around (36)
R12: (4 sc, dec) × 6 (30)
R13: sc around (30)
R14: (3 sc, dec) × 6 (24)
R15: (2 sc, dec) × 6 (18)
Stuff the lower body firmly because it acts as the internal support inside the basket. Keep the final neck area slightly softer.
R16: sc around (18)
R17: (sc, dec) × 6 (12)
R18: dec × 6 (6)
Fasten off and leave a 40 cm tail for attaching the head.
Outer Ears — Make Two
Yarn: warm cream.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4–R11: sc around (18)
R12: (sc, dec) × 6 (12)
R13–R15: sc around (12)
Do not stuff. Flatten each ear completely and round the closed tip with the fingers.
Fasten off and leave a 35 cm sewing tail.
Front Paws — Make Two
Yarn: warm cream.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4–R6: sc around (18)
R7: (sc, dec) × 6 (12)
R8–R9: sc around (12)
R10: dec × 6 (6)
Stuff through R7. Leave the upper section soft enough to compress against the basket rim.
Fasten off and leave a 30 cm attachment tail.
Hidden Back Legs — Make Two
Yarn: warm cream. These parts stabilize the bunny and are concealed by the basket.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4–R5: sc around (18)
R6: (sc, dec) × 6 (12)
R7: dec × 6 (6)
Stuff firmly. Fasten off and leave a 25 cm sewing tail.
Pink Cheek Patches — Make Two
Yarn: blush pink.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Slip stitch to the first stitch and fasten off with a 12 cm tail. Stretch the circle sideways while sewing to create the small horizontal cheek visible in the reference.
Nose and Mouth
Yarn: dark brown embroidery yarn.
Embroider a small V-shaped nose at the centre of the lower face. Work one vertical stitch downward approximately 8–10 mm, then add two short curved stitches for the mouth.
Carrot Basket Base
Yarn: carrot orange. Use 5 mm hook.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) × 6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) × 6 (42)
R8: (6 sc, inc) × 6 (48)
R9: (7 sc, inc) × 6 (54)
Target diameter: approximately 20–22 cm. If the base cups before R9, loosen the working tension rather than forcing it flat after completion.
Carrot Basket Walls
Continue in carrot orange.
R10: BLO sc around (54)
R11–R23: sc around (54)
Test the bunny inside after R20. Stop the wall earlier if the rim begins covering more than the lower third of the front paws.
R24: BLO sc around (54)
R25: sc around (54)
Fasten off.
Fold R25 outward along the BLO ridge to create the thick rounded rim. Tack the fold at eight equally spaced points.
Decorative Front Carrot Cords — Make Two
Yarn: carrot orange.
Ch 38.
Starting in the second chain from the hook, sl st back across all 37 chains.
Fasten off with a 20 cm tail.
Target finished length: approximately 17–19 cm.
Large Centre Carrot Leaves — Make Three
Yarn: leaf green. Use 5 mm hook.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4–R10: sc around (18)
R11: (sc, dec) × 6 (12)
R12–R15: sc around (12)
R16: dec × 6 (6)
Stuff only the lower half lightly. Flatten the upper portion into a broad leaf-like lobe.
Fasten off and leave a 35 cm tail.
Medium Carrot Leaves — Make Four
Yarn: leaf green.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc × 6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4–R7: sc around (18)
R8: (sc, dec) × 6 (12)
R9–R12: sc around (12)
R13: dec × 6 (6)
Stuff the base only. Flatten the top and curve several leaves outward to create the fan shape visible behind the bunny.
Fasten off and leave a 30 cm tail.
Optional Leaf Surface Ridges
Thread a long strand of matching green yarn through the base of one leaf. Run the yarn along the surface toward the tip and return through the crochet fabric at 2–3 cm intervals.
Pull with light tension. The ridge should bend the leaf slightly without folding it in half.
Basket Base Reinforcement
Cut a plastic-canvas circle approximately 5 mm smaller than the completed R9 base. Place it inside the basket before final assembly.
Cover the disc with a simple orange fabric or crochet circle if it will remain visible after the bunny is removed.
Assembly
- Sew the bunny head to the body with two complete passes around the neck contact area. Add one hidden rear anchor stitch so the head remains upright between the tall leaves.
- Flatten both ears and attach them high on the crown, leaving approximately 4–5 head stitches between their inner bases. Keep the ear tips above the future carrot foliage.
- Embroider the dark-brown nose and mouth, then attach both pink cheek patches outside the mouth area and below the eye line.
- Sew the front paws to the upper body with their rounded ends projecting forward. Position the hidden back legs low on the torso to widen the internal seated base.
- Arrange the three large carrot leaves and four medium leaves into a broad fan. Sew their lower ends to one another first, then attach the complete cluster across the rear interior of the basket.
- Place the bunny inside the orange basket and adjust its height until both paws sit just above the rim. Tack the hidden body and back legs to the basket base at four structural points.
- Rest the front paws against the rolled orange rim and add one concealed stitch beneath each paw if the display will remain permanently assembled.
- Attach the two orange decorative cords vertically down the front of the basket, starting beneath the rim and finishing near the lower side wall.
- Check the green leaf fan from the front. The foliage should extend beyond both ears without hiding the eye line or pushing the bunny head forward.
- Set the finished display on a hard surface, correct any basket-wall lean or bunny rotation, then weave every structural tail through at least three stitch directions.
The completed carrot basket should stand independently with the bunny centred, both paws visible above the rim and seven green leaves forming a broad backdrop around the upright ears.
7 Technical Tips
- Basket collapse: A 54-stitch wall can fold inward once the bunny and leaves are added. Insert a rigid base disc and keep the finished wall near 17–19 cm high rather than adding unnecessary rounds.
- Ear rotation: Long ears sewn across fewer than six head stitches can twist sideways. Spread each flattened attachment across approximately 7–8 stitches.
- Eye-placement drift: A one-round height difference is obvious on the 36-stitch face. Mark both 12 mm eye positions before installing either washer.
- Visible decrease gaps: Standard reductions may leave stuffing gaps along the head and body. Work every decrease through the front loops of the next two stitches.
- Leaf droop: A tall green lobe stuffed uniformly to the tip becomes heavy and folds at its basket seam. Keep stuffing within roughly the lower half of each leaf.
- Rim distortion: Pulling the folded 54-stitch rim too tightly makes the basket opening oval. Tack it at eight evenly spaced locations while the basket sits flat.
- Bunny sinking: A rabbit fixed only to the soft yarn base can settle below the rim. The top of each paw should remain approximately 2–4 cm above the folded orange edge after final assembly.
Shaping the Bunny Head
The head is the visual centre of this bunny amigurumi crochet pattern, even though the carrot basket occupies more total volume. A 36-stitch maximum provides enough width for the two large eyes, narrow mouth and widely spaced upright ears.
Keep the lower face relatively simple. The reference does not use a projecting muzzle, so a small embroidered V-shaped nose works better than a large stuffed snout.
Stuff the crown before filling the cheeks. This order maintains the round forehead and prevents one safety-eye washer from being pushed farther forward than the other.
Building the Long Upright Ears
Each ear reaches 18 stitches and holds that circumference for eight rounds before narrowing. That produces a long oval rather than the thin tube used for some floppy rabbit patterns.
Do not add stuffing. Flattened crochet gives the ears enough thickness and keeps the weight low above the head.
Pin both ears at once. Their tips should remain at similar heights, but a slight outward angle helps them stay visible between the large green carrot leaves.
Constructing the Orange Carrot Basket
The carrot container begins as a nine-round flat circle reaching 54 stitches. A back-loop round turns the fabric upward without increasing the circumference, creating a defined base edge.
Thirteen plain wall rounds provide enough depth for the hidden bunny body. Test the rabbit before finishing the rim because yarn thickness can change the physical wall height considerably.
The folded final edge creates a thick rounded border. That extra bulk is important in this design because the bunny paws visually rest against the front rim.
Making the Green Carrot Top
The foliage acts as both decoration and a backdrop for the bunny. Three larger pieces establish the central height while four medium lobes fill the outer edges.
A lightly stuffed base gives each leaf enough structure to stand. The unstuffed upper half can then flatten and curve outward, producing a wider silhouette than a fully cylindrical piece.
Arrange all seven pieces before sewing them to the basket. A symmetrical fan is not required, but the overall green mass should extend to both sides of the bunny head.
Positioning the Bunny Inside the Basket
Finish the bunny and basket independently before fixing their relationship. Place the rabbit inside and test several heights using temporary stuffing or folded scrap yarn beneath the body.
The correct position leaves the complete face above the rim while allowing both paws to overlap the orange edge. If the basket reaches the chin, the body is sitting too low.
Once the height is established, sew the hidden back legs to the base rather than relying on the front paws to carry the bunny’s weight.
Adding the Front Paws
The paws provide the strongest visual connection between the rabbit and carrot basket. Their rounded ends should face the viewer and rest just inside the rolled rim.
Stuff the lower portion but keep the attachment ends soft. A rigid paw projects outward and loses the resting position visible in the reference.
Pin both pieces before sewing. Their top edges should remain on roughly the same horizontal line even if one side of the body has slightly different stuffing density.
Controlling the Basket Shape
Bulky yarn gives the orange wall more body than standard worsted yarn, but the large opening can still deform when the green leaves pull backward.
A plastic-canvas base helps preserve the circular footprint. Additional support can come from four hidden vertical stitches running from the upper rim toward the base at quarter points.
Do not over-tighten those stitches. Their purpose is to resist collapse, not to pull the basket into four visible panels.
Working the Decorative Orange Cords
Two slip-stitched chains appear down the front of the basket and repeat the thick rim texture. They also break up the large uninterrupted orange surface.
Position the cords several centimetres apart. Perfectly centred parallel lines can look rigid, so a small difference in curve or spacing fits the handmade structure better.
Sew each cord at its top, midpoint and lower end. More attachment points can flatten the raised cord and reduce the visible relief.
Choosing Yarn and Hook Size
A dense worsted fabric works well for the rabbit because the facial rounds remain visible and the long ears keep their shape. The orange and green sections benefit from a thicker strand because the basket and foliage need greater structural mass.
Use a 4 mm hook for the bunny and a 5 mm hook for the bulky carrot pieces as the starting project specification. Make one ear and a small basket-base sample before committing to the full quantities.
If stuffing is visible through the bunny stitches, move down by 0.5 mm. When the basket fabric is rigid enough that the circular base cups, loosen the tension before changing its stitch count.
Adjusting Finished Size
For a smaller display, keep all written stitch totals but switch the bunny to DK yarn and the basket to worsted yarn. The relative scale remains more consistent than removing increase rounds.
For a larger carrot basket, move up in yarn thickness before expanding the bunny head beyond 36 stitches. A larger head would also require wider ears and a broader leaf fan.
Finish the bunny first when adapting the design to a specific shelf or Easter display. The basket diameter can then be adjusted by stopping at 48 stitches for a smaller version or adding one increase round to reach 60 stitches for a larger one.
Finishing Checks
Place the display on a level surface and inspect the orange basket first. The base should remain circular without rocking, and the folded rim should stay approximately horizontal.
View the bunny directly from the front. Both eyes need comparable height, the nose must remain centred and neither green leaf should push an ear across the face.
Check the foliage last. All seven leaves should be individually readable, the three large lobes should provide height and the outer leaves need enough spread to create the carrot-top silhouette.
Conclusion
Measure the completed bunny, basket diameter and total height before permanently securing the rabbit inside the carrot. Record the distance from the basket base to the paw tops as well; that number makes a second version much easier to reproduce. Photograph the project straight from the front to check ear spacing, leaf balance and rim height. Save this bunny amigurumi crochet pattern to Pinterest and share the finished display on Instagram with #CarrotBasketBunny. Shape the green leaves outward before the final photograph. For another carrot bunny, would you keep the white rabbit shown here or change the body to soft brown?
Sources
- WooHobby — 2026 step-by-step amigurumi bunny guide: 15–18 cm seated scale, 36-stitch head construction and 9–12 mm eye guidance.
- Ravelry — Amigurumi Friendly Bunny by Kali Dahle: worsted yarn, 4 mm hook, approximately 100 g yarn and 12 mm safety eyes.
- Ravelry — Bunny Amigurumi by Tidzhen Gyuldzhu: super-bulky chenille, 5 mm hook and 14 mm safety eyes.
- DIY Fluffies — Free Bunny Amigurumi: 21 cm super-bulky chenille bunny using a 5 mm hook and 16 mm eyes.
- Amigurumi Today — 2026 Bunny in Carrot Purse: current bunny-inside-carrot competition reference.
