Introduction
Bats fold their forelimbs into wings; this baby bat amigurumi crochet pattern folds the animal into a blanket instead. You will make a 15 cm plush chenille bat with dark gray body parts, 10 mm safety eyes, pink cheeks, and a lavender swaddle. The skill level is easy. The wrapped form hides attachment seams and gives the toy a stable sitting base.
The Design: What Makes This Baby Bat Different
The swaddle changes the bat’s silhouette, so the body cannot be tall and tapered like a standard standing plush. A 30-stitch body plateau keeps the lower section compact while still giving enough width for the lavender wrap. Oversized ears carry the bat identity after most limbs disappear under the blanket; they need a flat final seam so the lower edge sits cleanly on the head. The nose stays small, only an 8-stitch oval, because chenille stitches expand and can crowd the eyes. Many crochet baby bat pattern drafts fail by placing the ears too far forward. That makes the face look like a mouse rather than a bat. For a plush bat crochet pattern with a blanket, the viewer should read the ears first, then the nose, then the swaddle.
Project Info at a Glance
| Skill Level | Time | Finished Size | Hook | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Easy | 3–4 hours | 15 cm | 5.0 mm | Swaddled plush bat, Halloween display, market-table toy |
Materials and Tools
Yarn
Grams below are working allowances for the photographed 15 cm chenille version. The image verifies colors, yarn type, hook, eyes, and size; it does not publish yarn grams.
- Dark gray — plush / chenille — 60 g — suggested: Premier Parfait Chunky, Hobbii Honey Bunny, or similar chenille
- Lavender — plush / chenille — 80 g — suggested: same yarn line as main yarn
- Pink — plush / chenille scrap — 3–5 g — for cheek patches
- Deep plum — plush / chenille scrap — 2–3 g — for nose
Tools
- Hook 5.0 mm
- 10 mm safety eyes
- Polyester stuffing
- Yarn needle with large eye
- Locking stitch markers
- Scissors
- Pins for placement
For toys handled by children under 3, replace plastic safety eyes with embroidered eyes.
Abbreviations
MR = magic ring; sc = single crochet; inc = increase; dec = decrease; sl st = slip stitch; ch = chain; BLO = back loop only; R = round or row.
Invisible decrease means inserting the hook through the front loops of the next 2 stitches before completing 1 sc decrease.
Pattern — Step by Step
Work in a continuous spiral unless a row section says to turn.
Head
Yarn: dark gray
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: sc around (30)
R7: sc around (30)
R8: sc around (30)
R9: sc around (30)
R10: sc around (30)
R11: sc around (30)
R12: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
R13: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R14: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R15: dec ×6 (6)
Insert safety eyes between R7 and R8, 8 stitches apart, before closing. Stuff firmly enough to round the face without stretching the chenille gaps.
Fasten off. Close the final 6 stitches and weave the tail inside the head.
Body
Yarn: dark gray
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: sc around (30)
R7: sc around (30)
R8: sc around (30)
R9: sc around (30)
R10: sc around (30)
R11: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
R12: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R13: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R14: dec ×6 (6)
Stuff the body lightly at the top and more firmly at the base so it sits upright inside the blanket.
Fasten off. Leave a 35 cm tail for sewing.
Arms / Front Legs — Make 2
Yarn: dark gray
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: sc around (12)
R4: sc around (12)
R5: sc around (12)
R6: sc around (12)
R7: (2 sc, dec) ×3 (9)
R8: sc around (9)
R9: sc around (9)
R10: sc around (9)
R11: dec ×4, sc (5)
Do not overstuff. Add only a pinch of stuffing to the lower half so the arms can lie against the swaddle.
Flatten the opening. Fasten off and leave a 25 cm tail.
Back Legs — Make 2
Yarn: dark gray
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: sc around (12)
R4: sc around (12)
R5: sc around (12)
R6: sc around (12)
R7: (2 sc, dec) ×3 (9)
R8: sc around (9)
R9: sc around (9)
R10: sc around (9)
R11: dec ×4, sc (5)
Back legs are optional in the photographed assembly because the blanket covers the lower body. Add them only when the toy needs a visible base.
Flatten the opening. Fasten off and leave a 25 cm tail.
Ears — Make 2
Yarn: dark gray
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: sc around (30)
R7: sc around (30)
R8: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
R9: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R10: sc around (18)
Do not stuff. Fold each ear flat so the decrease line sits toward the back.
Sl st across both layers to close the lower edge. Fasten off and leave a 35 cm tail.
Nose
Yarn: deep plum
R1: 4 sc in MR (4)
R2: inc ×4 (8)
R3: sc around (8)
Flatten the oval slightly before sewing. The nose should cover the center of R10–R11 on the head.
Fasten off and leave a 20 cm tail.
Cheek Patches — Make 2
Yarn: pink
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Sl st into first sc (6)
Pull the ring tight and keep each patch flat. Do not stuff.
Fasten off and leave a 15 cm tail for sewing.
Blanket
Yarn: lavender
Ch 41.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (40)
Rows 2–60: ch 1, turn, sc across (40)
For the crossed-front wrap, place one upper corner over the body first, then pull the second upper corner across it.
Fasten off. Weave in the short end and keep one long tail if you plan to tack the wrap closed.
Assembly
- Sew the head to the body, matching the center front of the head with the center front of the body.
- Add extra stitches around the neck seam until the head no longer tilts forward.
- Position the safety eyes between R7 and R8, 8 stitches apart, then lock the washers in place.
- Sew the nose across R10–R11, centered between the eyes.
- Sew one cheek patch below each eye, keeping both patches level with the bottom of the nose.
- Pin both arms to the sides of the body before sewing; the top edge should sit just below the head seam.
- Sew the optional back legs to the lower front of the body only when they will remain visible under the wrap.
- Pin the ears to the top sides of the head with the inner lower corners angled toward the eyes.
- Wrap the lavender blanket around the body, cross the front panels, and tack the overlap with lavender yarn.
- Weave every tail through at least 4 cm of chenille fabric before trimming.
The finished toy measures about 15 cm when worked to the same gauge.
7 Technical Tips
- Stitch marker drift causes the nose to sit off-center. Reset the marker every 3 rounds by checking the center line between the eyes and the bottom of the head.
- Under-stuffed heads collapse behind 10 mm eyes. Add stuffing until the head springs back after a 5 mm thumb press, but stop before white stuffing shows between stitches.
- Visible decrease bars are common in dark chenille. Work invisible decreases through front loops only on R12–R15 of the head and R11–R14 of the body.
- Eye placement must happen before the head closes. Install the eyes between R7 and R8, exactly 8 stitches apart, while the inside of the head is still reachable.
- Velvet tension can change the finished height by more than 2 cm. Keep the 30-stitch head plateau close to a round dome; a flat disk means the hook is too large or the tension is loose.
- Ear pinning controls the species read. Place each ear so the lower inside edge starts about 2 rounds above the eye line, not directly beside the eyes.
- Tail weaving fails when chenille ends are clipped too close. Leave at least 15 cm, split the tail through the seam path twice, then trim only after a pull test.
Conclusion
Check the ear angle before weaving any tail. That single adjustment controls whether the finished toy reads as a bat or a gray animal wrapped in fabric. The next practical step is to work one ear and one cheek patch first, then measure them against the head before making the second side. Share the finished piece on Pinterest with a vertical process photo and on Instagram with a front-facing image that shows the 8-stitch eye spacing. Tag the project as #BabyBatSwaddle. Final note for this baby bat amigurumi crochet pattern: would you keep the nose centered, or shift it one round lower to make the face smaller?
