Introduction
A lemon hat cannot sit level on a rabbit whose ear roots occupy the entire crown. This lemon hat bunny amigurumi crochet pattern uses super-bulky chenille, a 5 mm hook and separately attached accessories to make a figure approximately 21–24 cm tall. The project is intermediate level. Its compact legs and low body create a stable display toy, while the removable collar leaves the neck seam accessible for later repairs.
The Design: What Makes This Lemon Hat Bunny Different
The head reaches a 42-stitch plateau, giving the long ears enough attachment space without forcing the 16 mm eyes too close together. Each ear narrows gradually at the root and remains unstuffed, so one can fall forward while the other hangs toward the side. That asymmetry matches the photographed silhouette. A 36-stitch body keeps the torso narrower than the head, and broad back legs carry the weight of the dense chenille crown. This mint bunny crochet pattern uses a fitted lemon-shaped hat rather than a flat cap; its open lower rounds form a brim around the forehead. The fringed collar covers the head seam without adding bulk beneath the arms. A frequent error in a chenille bunny amigurumi is placing the ears after the hat. Their roots then collide with the brim and push the accessory backward.
Project Info at a Glance
| Skill Level | Time | Finished Size | Hook | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Intermediate | 8–11 hours | Approximately 21–24 cm | 5 mm | Spring displays, fruit-themed collections and craft-market stock |
The final height depends on the chenille diameter, stuffing density and hat position. Measure the toy from the lowest foot round to the top point of the lemon hat.
Materials and Tools
Yarn
- Mint green — super-bulky chenille — 100–120 g — Hobbii Honey Bunny, Premier Parfait Chunky or a comparable plush yarn
- Lemon yellow — worsted or light aran cotton — 25–30 g — used for the fitted hat
- Cream — worsted cotton — 15 g — used for the collar band and fringe
- Dark green — worsted cotton — 5 g — used for the lemon leaf
- Pale lavender — DK cotton — 3 g — used for the eye surrounds and cheek patches
- Black — embroidery yarn — 2 g — used for the nose, mouth and eyelashes
Tools
- 5 mm crochet hook for the chenille pieces
- 3.5 mm crochet hook for the hat, leaf and collar
- 16 mm safety eyes
- Polyester stuffing, approximately 60–75 g
- Yarn needle with a large eye
- Locking stitch markers
- Dressmaking pins
- Scissors
- Ruler
Abbreviations
- MR — magic ring
- sc — single crochet
- inc — two single crochet stitches in one stitch
- dec — invisible decrease over two stitches
- sl st — slip stitch
- ch — chain
- hdc — half double crochet
- dc — double crochet
- BLO — back loop only
- FLO — front loop only
Work an invisible decrease through the front loops of the next two stitches, then complete one single crochet through both loops.
Pattern — Step by Step
Work the stuffed pieces in continuous spirals unless joined rounds or rows are stated. Mark the first stitch immediately after completing it.
Head
Yarn: mint green — project-specific six-stitch amigurumi shaping.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
R8–R15: sc around (42)
R16: (5 sc, dec) ×6 (36)
R17: sc around (36)
R18: (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
R19: sc around (30)
R20: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
R21: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R22: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R23: dec ×6 (6)
R24: close through the front loops (6)
Insert the eyes between R12 and R13 with seven visible stitches between the posts. Stuff after R19, placing small pieces around the eye washers before filling the crown.
Fasten off. Leave a 30 cm tail.
Body
Yarn: mint green — project-specific six-stitch amigurumi shaping.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7–R14: sc around (36)
R15: (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
R16–R18: sc around (30)
R19: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
R20–R21: sc around (24)
R22: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R23: sc around (18)
Fill the lower half firmly. Keep the final 2 cm level and moderately packed so the head does not tilt beneath the hat.
Fasten off. Leave a 35 cm sewing tail.
Arms (Make 2)
Yarn: mint green — standard amigurumi math.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3–R5: sc around (12)
R6: (2 sc, dec) ×3 (9)
R7–R11: sc around (9)
R12: (sc, dec) ×3 (6)
Stuff through R6 only. Leave the upper half flexible so the arms can point slightly forward.
Flatten the opening and work 3 sc through both layers. Fasten off, leaving a 22 cm tail.
Back Legs (Make 2)
Yarn: mint green — broad-foot construction.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4–R7: sc around (18)
R8: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R9–R11: sc around (12)
R12: dec ×6 (6)
Pack the first seven rounds firmly. Add only a small amount of filling above the decrease round so the leg sits close to the torso.
Fasten off. Leave a 25 cm tail.
Floppy Ears (Make 2)
Yarn: mint green — long oval construction.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4–R11: sc around (18)
R12: (4 sc, dec) ×3 (15)
R13–R15: sc around (15)
R16: (3 sc, dec) ×3 (12)
R17–R19: sc around (12)
R20: (2 sc, dec) ×3 (9)
Do not stuff. Flatten each ear and turn its round transition toward the back before closing the root.
Work 4 sc through both layers. Fasten off, leaving a 30 cm tail.
Forehead Tuft
Yarn: mint green — small surface cluster.
Ch 7. Beginning in the second chain from the hook, work sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc (6).
Ch 6. Beginning in the second chain, work sl st, sc, hdc, hdc, sc (5).
Ch 5. Beginning in the second chain, work sl st, sc, hdc, sc (4).
Hold the three strands together at their base and curve them over the center forehead.
Fasten off. Leave a 20 cm sewing tail.
Cheek Patches (Make 2)
Yarn: pale lavender — flat-circle construction.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
Flatten each circle and stretch it into a shallow oval during attachment.
Join with a sl st. Fasten off, leaving a 15 cm tail.
Eye Surrounds (Make 2)
Yarn: pale lavender — worked as split rings.
Ch 15. Join with a sl st to form a ring, checking that the chain is not twisted.
R1: sc in each chain around (15)
Place each ring behind its safety eye before the washer is attached. Pull the lower half outward by approximately 2 mm to expose the lavender border.
Fasten off and knot both tails inside the head.
Nose and Mouth
Use black embroidery yarn to form a horizontal nose across two head stitches between R14 and R15. Work one 12 mm vertical line downward, then add two 8 mm diagonal mouth branches. Pass the yarn through the head once more to lock the embroidery beneath the chenille pile.
Tail
Yarn: mint green — small stuffed sphere.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3–R4: sc around (12)
R5: dec ×6 (6)
Add a firm pinch of stuffing before completing the final decreases.
Fasten off. Leave a 20 cm tail.
Lemon Hat
Yarn: lemon yellow — worked with the 3.5 mm hook.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: sc around (6)
R3: inc ×6 (12)
R4: sc around (12)
R5: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R6: sc around (18)
R7: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R8: sc around (24)
R9: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R10: sc around (30)
R11: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R12–R13: sc around (36)
R14: FLO inc ×36 (72)
R15: sc around (72)
Do not stuff the hat. Round 14 creates the projecting brim. Test the opening over the crown before cutting the yarn.
Join with a sl st. Fasten off, leaving a 35 cm tail.
Lemon Leaf
Yarn: dark green — worked with the 3.5 mm hook.
Ch 9. Beginning in the second chain from the hook, work sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, 3 sc in the final chain. Continue along the opposite side with sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc (18).
Fold the leaf slightly along its center chain to form a raised vein.
Join with a sl st. Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm tail.
Fringed Collar Band
Yarn: cream — worked with the 3.5 mm hook.
Row 1: ch 6, sc in second ch from hook and across (5)
Row 2–Row 34: ch 1, turn, BLO sc across (5)
Row 35: ch 1, turn, sc across (5)
The unstretched band should measure approximately 25 cm. Add or remove two-row units when the neck circumference differs.
Fasten off. Leave a 25 cm tail for joining the short ends.
Collar Fringe
Cut twenty-two cream strands measuring 14 cm each. Fold one strand in half, draw its loop through the lower edge of the collar and pull both loose ends through the loop. Place the strands approximately one collar row apart, leaving the rear 4 cm free of fringe. Trim the finished strands to 6 cm.
Assembly
- Pin the head centrally over the body’s 18-stitch opening. Sew around the neck twice, adding a final pinch of stuffing before closing the last 2 cm.
- Check the black nose against the midpoint between the eyes. Add the mouth embroidery before attaching any surface pieces that could obstruct the needle.
- Sew the pale-lavender cheek patches below and outside the eyes. Keep each upper edge at least one full round beneath the eye posts.
- Position the ears between head R5 and R9 with six visible crown stitches between their inner roots. Angle one ear slightly forward and the second toward the side.
- Attach the forehead tuft between the ear roots, placing its longest strand over the center of the face without touching either eye.
- Sew the arms at body R17 and R18. Leave approximately eight front-body stitches between their inner edges.
- Attach the back legs across body R4 to R10. Place the bunny on a hard surface and level both feet before securing the second seam.
- Sew the tail to the center back between body R7 and R10. Keep its lowest edge above the work surface so it does not tip the body forward.
- Fit the yellow hat behind the forehead tuft and between the ear roots. Tack the rear half of the brim to the head, then sew the green leaf beside the top point.
- Join the collar band around the neck, rotate the unfringed section to the back and comb the fringe downward with a blunt needle. Bury every remaining tail through at least 5 cm of stuffed fabric.
The completed bunny should stand on both back feet without support from the arms, collar fringe or tail.
7 Technical Tips
- Lost round marker: Chenille pile can cover the first stitch and shift every decrease line. Use a locking marker in the completed stitch rather than placing a loose strand between stitches.
- Soft neck failure: A neck compressed by more than 8 mm will let the hat pull the head backward. Add small pieces of filling around the neck perimeter instead of inserting one large clump.
- Visible decrease gaps: Standard decreases can expose filling through the mint surface. Work through front loops only and reduce the hook to 4.5 mm when a gap exceeds 3 mm.
- Late eye placement: Sixteen-millimetre washers become difficult to install after the head decreases below 24 stitches. Fit both eyes and their lavender surrounds before completing R20.
- Unequal ear length: A difference of one chenille round can exceed 6 mm. Place both ears side by side after R11 and again after R19 before closing either root.
- Hat brim collision: A brim sewn within 5 mm of an ear root can make the ear stand outward. Pin the hat after both ears are attached and maintain at least one visible head stitch around each root.
- Irregular fringe: Collar strands cut by eye can vary enough to obscure the front legs. Begin with 14 cm pieces, attach every strand, then trim the hanging length to exactly 6 cm.
Conclusion
Test the hat after attaching both ears but before fixing the forehead tuft. Its brim should remain level above the eyes while clearing each ear root by at least one visible stitch. Crochet the first ear next and record its relaxed length from the magic ring to the flattened base; compare that measurement with the second ear before assembly. Save this lemon hat bunny amigurumi crochet pattern to a Pinterest fruit-themed project board, then share the completed rabbit on Instagram with #LemonHatBunny. Add the chenille brand, hook size and finished height to the caption. Did you angle the left ear across the brim, or let both ears hang outside the yellow hat?
