Introduction
A mouse with ears wider than its feet needs reinforced ear bases or the circles fold behind the head. This mouse amigurumi crochet pattern uses super-bulky chenille, a 5 mm hook and 15 mm safety eyes to make a seated plush approximately 20 cm tall. The project suits an intermediate beginner familiar with spiral rounds. Its broad feet create a stable base for display and front-facing product photographs.
The Design: What Makes This Mouse Different
The head reaches a 36-stitch plateau and remains at that count for eight rounds, creating the broad spherical shape visible in the reference image. Each ear is worked as a double-layered circle rather than a narrow cone. That structure keeps the outline round while giving the lower edge enough thickness for sewing. A small raised muzzle separates the black nose from the gray face, and the compact body prevents the head from appearing undersized. One frequent error in a plush mouse crochet pattern is attaching both ears directly to the rear of the head. Their lower halves then disappear from the front. This chenille mouse amigurumi places each ear across the upper side curve, leaving most of the circle visible. Large back feet counterbalance the head and hold the finished mouse in a seated position.
Project Info at a Glance
| Skill Level | Time | Finished Size | Hook | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Intermediate beginner | 5–7 hours | Approximately 20 cm sitting | 5 mm | Display, gifting and plush photography |
The measurement assumes super-bulky chenille and compact amigurumi tension. Changing the yarn thickness, hook diameter or stuffing density will alter the finished dimensions.
Materials and Tools
Yarn
- Light pearl gray — super-bulky weight 6 polyester chenille — approximately 140–170 g — Hobbii Honey Bunny, Premier Parfait Chunky, Himalaya Dolphin Baby or a comparable plush yarn.
- Pale pink — DK cotton or embroidery floss — under 10 g — used for the cheek patches.
- Black — DK cotton or six-strand embroidery floss — under 5 g — used for the nose and mouth.
Tools
- 5 mm crochet hook
- Two 15 mm black safety eyes
- Polyester stuffing, approximately 70–90 g
- Large-eye yarn needle
- Embroidery needle
- Locking stitch marker
- Straight pins
- Sharp scissors
Replace the plastic eyes with tightly embroidered eyes when the finished mouse is intended for a child under three years old.
Abbreviations
- MR — magic ring
- sc — single crochet
- inc — two single crochets in one stitch
- dec — invisible decrease over two stitches
- sl st — slip stitch
- ch — chain
- BLO — back loop only
For an invisible decrease, insert the hook through the front loops of the next two stitches, yarn over, pull through both front loops, then complete one single crochet.
Pattern — Step by Step
Work in a continuous spiral unless a section states otherwise. Place a locking marker in the first stitch of every round and move it after completing the round.
Head
Yarn: light gray chenille. Construction source: standard six-stitch amigurumi shaping adapted to the photographed proportions.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7–R14: sc around (36)
R15: (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
Insert the 15 mm safety eyes between R10 and R11, leaving seven visible stitches between the posts. Check the alignment from directly in front before fitting the washers.
R16: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
R17: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
Stuff the upper and side sections firmly. Place smaller pieces around the eye washers so the face retains an even curve.
R18: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R19: dec ×6 (6)
Fasten off. Thread the yarn through the front loops of the final six stitches, close the opening and bury the tail through the head.
Body
Yarn: light gray chenille.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7–R9: sc around (36)
R10: (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
R11–R12: sc around (30)
R13: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
R14–R15: sc around (24)
R16: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R17: sc around (18)
R18: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
Pack the lower body firmly to create a stable sitting base. Keep the final two rounds slightly softer so the neck opening can spread beneath the head.
Fasten off. Leave a 40 cm tail for attaching the body to the head.
Arms — Make Two
Yarn: light gray chenille.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4–R5: sc around (18)
R6: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R7–R9: sc around (12)
Stuff the rounded paw end to medium firmness. Leave the upper third unstuffed so the arm rests close to the body.
R10: Flatten the opening and crochet 6 sc through both layers (6).
Fasten off. Leave a 30 cm sewing tail.
Back Legs — Make Two
Yarn: light gray chenille.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5–R7: sc around (24)
R8: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R9: sc around (18)
R10: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
Add firm stuffing, concentrating a little more in the front half of each foot. Keep the rear surface flatter where it will touch the body.
R11: dec ×6 (6).
Fasten off. Close the final six stitches and leave a 35 cm sewing tail.
Outer Ears — Make Four
Yarn: light gray chenille. Two circles form each completed ear.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
Fasten off the first circle of each pair and weave in its tail. Do not fasten off the second circle.
Joining the Ears — Make Two
Place two matching circles together with their wrong sides facing inward.
Join through both layers with 24 sc around the edge (24).
Do not stuff. Flatten the completed circle and pinch the lower 2 cm of the edge together to create a narrow attachment base.
Fasten off. Leave a 35 cm tail for sewing the ear to the head.
Muzzle
Yarn: light gray chenille.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
Join with a sl st. Fasten off and leave a 30 cm tail.
Add only a thin layer of stuffing behind the center. The muzzle should project about 10–12 mm from the face after sewing.
Cheek Patches — Make Two
Yarn: pale pink DK cotton or embroidery floss held double.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6).
Join with a sl st. Fasten off and leave a 15 cm sewing tail. Each patch should measure approximately 12–15 mm across before attachment.
Tail
Yarn: light gray chenille.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3–R12: sc around (12)
R13: Flatten the opening and crochet 6 sc through both layers (6)
Insert a narrow strip of stuffing through the first eight rounds. Leave the upper section flexible so the tail can curve against the body.
Fasten off. Leave a 30 cm sewing tail.
Nose and Mouth
Use black DK cotton or six-strand embroidery floss.
Embroider an inverted triangular nose approximately 16 mm wide at the upper center of the muzzle. Bring the thread down through one stitch beneath the triangle. Add one curved stitch toward the left and a matching stitch toward the right, keeping the complete mouth no wider than 20 mm.
Assembly
- Pin the body beneath the head with the neck centered across the lower head rounds.
- Sew around the neck using close mattress stitches, adding a final amount of stuffing before closing the seam.
- Place the muzzle between and slightly below the eyes, then sew around its edge while retaining the shallow raised center.
- Embroider the triangular nose and divided mouth, checking that the vertical line follows the center of the face.
- Attach the pink cheek patches one round below and two stitches outside the eyes.
- Pin the arms to the upper sides of the body with their rounded ends directed slightly forward.
- Sew the back legs to the lower body so both feet contact a level surface at the same point.
- Attach the ears across R3–R8 of the head, leaving approximately eight visible stitches between their inner attachment edges.
- Sew the tail to the lower rear body and curve it toward either side without pulling the body off balance.
- Bury every yarn tail through at least 4 cm of stuffed fabric, trim the end and move the surrounding stitches until the cut end retracts.
The completed mouse should sit without external support, with both ears visible from the front and both feet resting level.
7 Technical Tips
- Marker drift: Losing the first stitch can rotate the facial center by one stitch per round. Move a locking marker after every completed round and recount each increase or decrease round.
- Soft neck seam: Insufficient stuffing beneath the head causes a forward tilt. Fill the lower body to about 80% firmness and add small pieces around the neck immediately before closing the seam.
- Visible decrease gaps: Standard decreases can expose white filling through gray chenille. Work each decrease through the two front loops and keep the working loop close to the 5 mm hook shaft.
- Late eye placement: Plastic washers cannot be installed after the head closes. Fit both eyes before R16 and compare their distance from the muzzle center before pressing the backs into place.
- Chenille fiber damage: Reworking the same stitch more than two or three times can strip the pile from its internal cord. Test the first four rounds for gauge before completing a large component.
- Collapsed ear circles: A single-layer ear can curl or fold behind the head. Join two 24-stitch circles and sew through both layers across the lower 2 cm of the attachment edge.
- Uneven sitting position: A foot placed 10 mm higher than its partner makes the mouse lean. Pin both legs, set the toy on a flat table and compare the contact points before sewing.
Conclusion
Check the ear position from the front before placing permanent stitches, because most of each circle must remain visible outside the head outline. Next, compare the cheek height, eye spacing and muzzle center with the body seam held vertically. Test the sitting position on a level surface before securing the back legs and tail. Record the yarn brand, dye lot, hook size and final height beside this mouse amigurumi crochet pattern so a second plush can be matched accurately. Share a vertical project photograph on Pinterest and post front and side views on Instagram with #PearlEarMouse. Should the next mouse use matching gray ear centers or contrasting pale pink inner circles?
