Strawberry Penguin Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

A strawberry penguin has to read as a bird and a berry before the beak is attached. This strawberry penguin amigurumi uses DK cotton, a 2.5 mm hook, 10 mm safety eyes, and fiberfill; the finished sample is 10 cm with intermediate skill. The pattern turns the fruit cap into a removable-looking hood, so the toy works as shelf-size strawberry decor without losing the penguin silhouette.

The Design: What Makes Berry Pingu Different

Start by reading the silhouette from top to bottom: berry cap, round penguin head, compact body, oval feet. The strawberry hood is built as a separate cap because color changes across the head would flatten the face and hide the cream mask. A separate hood also gives the front point a cleaner edge. The maker then shifts to bird anatomy: wide face, small beak, side flippers, and low feet. That keeps the crochet strawberry penguin from becoming only a fruit doll with eyes. The white belly patch is sewn on after stuffing, which lets the body stay round instead of collapsing at the front. A common mistake with a penguin amigurumi free pattern is placing the eyes too high; on this design, the eyes sit low enough to leave room for the strawberry brim.

Project Info at a Glance

Skill LevelTimeFinished SizeHookBest For
Intermediate4–6 hours10 cm2.5 mmStrawberry shelf decor, fruit animal amigurumi, spring display

Materials and Tools

Yarn

  • Coral pink — DK — 25 g — Rico Ricorumi DK, Paintbox Cotton DK, or similar
  • Cream white — DK — 25 g — for head base and belly
  • Moss green — DK — 8–10 g — for calyx, stem, charm leaves, flower leaf
  • Yellow — DK — 5–6 g — for beak, feet, flower center
  • Pale pink — DK — 5–8 g — for cheeks and scarf
  • White — DK or embroidery cotton — 2–3 g — for flower petals and strawberry seed stitches

Tools

  • Hook 2.5 mm
  • 10 mm safety eyes
  • Polyester fiberfill
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Sewing pins
  • Embroidery needle
  • Scissors

Abbreviations

MR = magic ring; sc = single crochet; inc = increase; dec = decrease; sl st = slip stitch; ch = chain; BLO = back loop only; FO = fasten off.

Invisible decrease means working through the front loops of the next two stitches so the decrease line stays less visible under firm stuffing.

Pattern — Step by Step

Continuous spiral unless noted.

Head — Make 1

Yarn: cream white

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
R8–R14: sc around (42)
R15: (5 sc, dec) ×6 (36)
R16: (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
R17: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)

Insert safety eyes between R10 and R11, 10–11 stitches apart. Stuff firmly before the opening gets narrow.

R18: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R19: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R20: dec ×6 (6)

Fasten off. Leave 20 cm tail and close through front loops.

Body — Make 1

Yarn: coral pink

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
R8–R15: sc around (42)
R16: (5 sc, dec) ×6 (36)
R17: (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
R18: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)

Stuff the lower body until it stands without leaning back.

R19: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R20: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R21: dec ×6 (6)

Fasten off. Leave 30 cm tail for sewing body to head.

Belly Patch — Make 1

Yarn: cream white

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
Sl st to join (36)

Fasten off. Leave 35 cm tail. Pin into an oval on the front body before sewing.

Strawberry Hood — Make 1

Yarn: coral pink

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
R8–R12: sc around (42)
R13: sc 42, sl st to join (42)

Front point, worked in rows from the front center:

Row 1: sc 13, turn (13)
Row 2: dec, 9 sc, dec, turn (11)
Row 3: sc 11, turn (11)
Row 4: dec, 7 sc, dec, turn (9)
Row 5: dec, 5 sc, dec, turn (7)
Row 6: dec, 3 sc, dec, turn (5)
Row 7: dec, sc, dec (3)

Border: sc evenly around lower edge (42).

Embroider white seed stitches after sewing the hood to the head.

Fasten off. Leave 45 cm tail.

Green Calyx Leaves — Make 6

Yarn: moss green

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (6)
R3: BLO sl st around to sharpen edge (6)

Fasten off. Leave 15 cm tail on each leaf.

Stem — Make 1

Yarn: moss green

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2–R6: sc around (6)

Stuff with yarn tail only, not fiberfill, so the stem bends slightly but does not bulge.

Fasten off. Leave 20 cm tail.

Side Wings / Front Flippers — Make 2

Yarn: coral pink

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4–R7: sc around (18)
R8: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R9: dec ×6 (6)

Stuff only the lower third. Flatten the final round before sewing.

Fasten off. Leave 25 cm tail.

Back Feet — Make 2

Yarn: yellow

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4–R6: sc around (18)
R7: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R8: dec ×6 (6)

Do not overstuff. Flat-bottom feet stabilize the sitting body.

Fasten off. Leave 25 cm tail.

Beak — Make 1

Yarn: yellow

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2–R3: sc around (6)

Flatten into a short oval.

Fasten off. Leave 20 cm tail.

Cheek Patches — Make 2

Yarn: pale pink

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
Sl st to join (12)

Fasten off. Leave 18 cm tail.

Scarf — Make 1

Yarn: pale pink

Ch 61.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (60)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across (60)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across (60)

Tie ends: ch 9 at each short end, sl st back along chain (9 each).

Fasten off. Weave tails into the wrong side.

Daisy Flower — Make 1

Yarn: white petals, yellow center

Center, yellow:

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)

Fasten off. Leave 15 cm tail.

Petals, white: join to any front loop of R2.

R1: (sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) in same st; repeat in every other stitch around (6 petals).

Fasten off. Leave 20 cm tail.

Flower leaf, moss green:

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (6)

Fasten off. Leave 15 cm tail.

Strawberry Charm — Make 1

Yarn: coral pink and moss green

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4–R5: sc around (18)
R6: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)

Stuff very lightly. Too much filling rounds the strawberry into a ball.

R7: dec ×6 (6)

Fasten off. Close through front loops. Embroider 6–8 white seed stitches.

Mini leaves, moss green, make 3:

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (6)

Fasten off. Sew to the top of the charm.

Assembly

  1. Sew the body to the head, aligning the body center with the space between the eyes.
  2. Pin the strawberry hood over the head, keeping the front point centered above the beak.
  3. Sew the hood along the lower rim; add white seed stitches after it is fixed.
  4. Attach the green calyx leaves around the top of the hood, then sew the stem in the center.
  5. Sew the beak between the eyes, centered on R11–R12 of the head.
  6. Sew cheek patches level with the lower edge of the eyes.
  7. Pin and sew the belly patch to the front body, stretching it into an oval.
  8. Attach side wings between the head seam and upper body sides.
  9. Sew the feet to the front base of the body, leaving 3–4 stitches between them.
  10. Wrap the scarf, tack it at the knot, then sew on the daisy and strawberry charm.

The finished penguin should sit upright with the hood, scarf, and charm balanced on the front axis.

7 Technical Tips

  • Stitch marker drift: If the marker leans more than 3 stitches by R10, the hood point will not center over the beak. Move the beginning marker only after checking the eye line.
  • Stuffing firmness: A soft body collapses under the head seam, especially with the scarf added. Pack the body to medium-firm pressure, then add a final thumb-sized piece before closing.
  • Invisible decrease ridges: Visible decrease bars show most on the cream face. Work each dec through front loops only, then rotate those rounds toward the underside when sewing.
  • Eye placement timing: Insert the safety eyes before R18 of the head. After R18, the opening is too narrow for checking washer pressure and matching both eyes.
  • Velvet tension substitute: If using velvet instead of DK cotton, increase hook size to match fabric density and expect a larger toy. Pulling velvet too tightly strips pile at the beak and cheek seams.
  • Pinning measurement: Pin the belly patch 1 round below the neck seam and 2 rounds above the feet. That gap keeps the body from looking like a flat white disk.
  • Tail weaving failure: Short tails pull out when the scarf is handled. Leave at least 20 cm on sewn parts and weave each tail through three direction changes inside the fabric.

Conclusion

Check the hood fit before final sewing, because that single edge controls the berry shape and the penguin face at the same time. Work the head, body, hood, and belly first; then add the smaller pieces in batches so color tails can be hidden cleanly. For the next step, pin the strawberry charm under the scarf knot and photograph the toy from the front before tying off. Share the finished strawberry penguin amigurumi on Pinterest and Instagram with the same angle, full body visible, and seed stitches in focus. Use hashtag #BerryPingu. Which detail should sit higher on this character: the daisy on the hood or the scarf charm?

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