A butterfly bear has four soft wings but a bear’s weight sits on two feet; that mismatch sets the pattern geometry. This butterfly bear amigurumi crochet pattern uses plush beige yarn, pastel wing panels, 10 mm safety eyes, and a 3.5 mm hook for an advanced-beginner build around 12.7 cm seated. Make it when a flat butterfly appliqué is too thin for display.
The Design: What Makes Flutter Bear Different
Flutter Bear is built around two competing shapes: a compact teddy body and wide butterfly wings. The head uses a 36-stitch plateau so the muzzle and eyes stay round, while the body narrows below the neck to stop the wings from pushing the toy forward. The wings are made as flat round panels, then edged and marked after assembly; this keeps the back light enough for a seated pose. Use crochet butterfly wings as decoration, not structure. A common mistake with an amigurumi bear with wings is placing the wings too low, which tips the head backward and hides the ears. This version pins the upper wings behind the head before the arms go on. Proportion first. Decoration after.
Project Info at a Glance
| Skill Level | Time | Finished Size | Hook | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Advanced beginner | Not specified in verified source | 12.7 cm seated in worsted scale | 3.5 mm | Display toy with removable or sewn wings |
The verified size, hook, and safety-eye benchmark comes from The Cozy Chipmunk’s Butterfly Bear data; Ravelry also lists the same 3.5 mm hook and Aran yarn scale.
Materials and Tools
Yarn
- Blush beige — worsted/Aran or plush velvet substitute — 45–70 g — Loops & Threads Impeccable or similar
- Cream white — worsted/Aran — 8 g — muzzle and inner wing patches
- Pastel pink — worsted/Aran — 35 g — wing borders, cheek patches, paw pads
- Lavender — worsted/Aran — 20 g — antennae, collar, wing accents
- Pale yellow — worsted/Aran — 5 g — flower center and wing dots
- Mint green — worsted/Aran — 3 g — flower leaves
Published butterfly-bear material data supports worsted/Aran yarn with a 3.5 mm hook, while another butterfly teddy source lists beige and accent yarn by gram for a smaller DK-scale toy.
Tools
- Hook 3.5 mm
- 10 mm safety eyes for source-scale yarn, or 14–16 mm for chunky velvet photo scale
- Polyester stuffing
- Yarn needle
- Sewing pins
- Stitch markers
- Dark brown embroidery thread for nose and mouth
Abbreviations
MR = magic ring; sc = single crochet; inc = 2 sc in one stitch; dec = invisible decrease; sl st = slip stitch; ch = chain; BLO = back loop only; FO = fasten off. Invisible decrease works through front loops only and reduces the visible gap at narrowing rounds.
Pattern — Step by Step
Continuous spiral unless noted. Counts are given in brackets.
Head
Yarn: blush beige — Source: Standard amigurumi math; verified scale compared with published butterfly-bear head data.
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 [24]
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 [30]
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 [36]
R7–R13: sc around [36]
R14: (4 sc, dec) ×6 [30]
Insert safety eyes between R10 and R11, 7 stitches apart. Pin muzzle before locking washers.
R15: (3 sc, dec) ×6 [24]
R16: (2 sc, dec) ×6 [18]
Stuff firmly, with extra stuffing under the forehead.
R17: (sc, dec) ×6 [12]
R18: dec ×6 [6]
Fasten off. Leave 25 cm tail and close the hole.
Body
Yarn: blush beige — Source: Standard amigurumi math; verified body proportions compared with published butterfly-bear body data.
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 [24]
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 [30]
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 [36]
R7–R11: sc around [36]
R12: (4 sc, dec) ×6 [30]
R13: (3 sc, dec) ×6 [24]
R14: (2 sc, dec) ×6 [18]
Stuff the base first. Add more stuffing at the neck so the head does not sink.
R15: (sc, dec) ×6 [12]
R16: dec ×6 [6]
Fasten off. Leave 30 cm tail for sewing to the head.
Muzzle
Yarn: cream white — Source: Standard amigurumi math.
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
R4: sc around [18]
Fasten off. Leave 30 cm tail. Embroider a small brown triangle nose across R2–R3 and add one vertical stitch below it.
Ears
Yarn: blush beige — Source: Standard amigurumi math; ear placement benchmarked against published bear assembly notes.
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
R4–R5: sc around [18]
Fasten off. Leave 25 cm tail. Do not stuff; flatten each ear into a shallow cup.
Cheek Patches
Yarn: pastel pink — Source: Standard amigurumi math.
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
Sl st to first stitch [12]
Fasten off. Leave 15 cm tail. Make 2.
Arms / Front Legs
Yarn: blush beige — Source: Standard amigurumi math.
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
R3–R4: sc around [12]
R5: dec ×6 [6]
R6–R8: sc around [6]
Stuff only the paw bulb. Leave the upper arm flat.
Fasten off. Leave 20 cm tail. Make 2.
Back Legs
Yarn: blush beige — Source: Standard amigurumi math.
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
R4–R5: sc around [18]
R6: (sc, dec) ×6 [12]
R7–R9: sc around [12]
Stuff the toe firmly and the ankle lightly.
Fasten off. Leave 25 cm tail. Make 2.
Foot Pads
Yarn: pastel pink — Source: Standard amigurumi math.
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
R3: sc around [12]
Sl st to first stitch [12]
Fasten off. Leave 15 cm tail. Make 2 and sew one to the front of each back foot.
Upper Wings
Yarn: pastel pink with cream and lavender surface accents — Source: Standard amigurumi math; wing concept compared with published butterfly-bear wing construction.
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 [24]
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 [30]
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 [36]
R7–R8: sc around [36]
Do not stuff. Flatten into a broad oval and press the inner edge slightly inward before pinning.
Fasten off. Leave 35 cm tail. Make 2.
Lower Wings
Yarn: pastel pink with lavender surface accents — Source: Standard amigurumi math.
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 [24]
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 [30]
R6–R7: sc around [30]
Do not stuff. Flatten each lower wing into a rounded teardrop.
Fasten off. Leave 30 cm tail. Make 2.
Wing Markings
Yarn: cream, lavender, pale yellow, pastel pink — Source: Standard amigurumi math and surface crochet.
Small dots: R1: 6 sc in MR [6], sl st to first stitch [6]. Fasten off. Make 12–16 dots.
Large inner patches: R1: 6 sc in MR [6]; R2: inc ×6 [12]; R3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]. Fasten off. Make 2 cream patches and 2 lavender patches.
Curved stripes: ch 16 for upper curves and ch 12 for lower curves. Sew chains onto wings in shallow S-shapes.
Antennae
Yarn: lavender — Source: Standard amigurumi math plus chain stem.
Antenna ball:
R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
R2: inc ×6 [12]
R3: dec ×6 [6]
Stuff with one pinch of fiberfill.
Stem: ch 8, sl st in the second ch from hook and across [7]
Fasten off. Sew one ball to each stem. Make 2.
Flower
Yarn: pastel pink petals, pale yellow center, mint green leaves — Source: Standard amigurumi math.
Center: R1: 6 sc in MR [6], sl st to first stitch [6].
Petals: attach pink in any stitch, *(ch 2, 2 sc in next stitch, ch 2, sl st in next stitch)* repeat 6 times [6 petals].
Leaves: ch 5, sc in second ch from hook, hdc, hdc, sc [4]. Make 2.
Fasten off. Leave 20 cm tail for sewing near one ear.
Collar
Yarn: lavender — Source: measured chain trim.
Row 1: ch 26 [26]
Row 2: sc in second ch from hook and across [25]
Row 3: *(sl st, ch 2, sl st in next stitch)* across [25 base stitches]
Fasten off. Leave 20 cm tail. Wrap around the neck after the head is sewn on.
Assembly
- Sew the body to the underside of the head with the body centered below the eye line.
- Pin ears between head R5 and R9, then sew through both ear layers.
- Sew the muzzle between the eyes with its top edge level with the lower eye edge.
- Attach cheek patches one round below the eyes and 1 stitch outside the muzzle.
- Sew back legs to the lower front of the body, angled outward by about 20 degrees.
- Add foot pads to the visible face of each back leg.
- Sew arms to the upper body, 2 rounds below the neck join.
- Join each upper wing to its matching lower wing, then sew the pair to the back from head R8 down to body R8.
- Sew antennae behind the ears and add the flower beside the right ear.
- Wrap the collar around the neck, stitch the back seam closed, and bury all tails.
The finished butterfly bear has a seated teddy base, four flat wings, antennae, cheek patches, paw pads, and a side flower.
7 Technical Tips
- Stitch marker drift: On head R7–R13, the marker can creep 1–2 stitches to the right. Reset it after the last stitch of each round so the muzzle stays centered.
- Stuffing firmness: Neck collapse starts when the body compresses more than 1 cm under finger pressure. Add small pieces of stuffing around body R12–R15 before closing.
- Invisible dec holes: Chenille gaps show first on R15–R18 of the head. Work the decrease through front loops only and keep the pull low against the fabric.
- Eye placement timing: Lock the safety-eye washers after the muzzle is pinned, not before. A 7-stitch gap suits 10 mm eyes on worsted yarn; chunky yarn may need 8–9 stitches.
- Velvet tension: Velvet worming appears when the last three rounds are worked loose. Drop from a 3.5 mm hook to 3.0 mm for the final decrease rounds if loops rise.
- Wing sag: Upper wings sag when their top edge starts below head R9. Pin the upper wing edge across head R6–R8 and the lower wing to body R5–R8.
- Tail weaving: Arm tails can pop out at the shoulder if buried only 2–3 cm. Weave each tail 8–10 cm through the stuffed core, then pull slightly and trim close.
Conclusion
This butterfly bear amigurumi crochet pattern depends on weight control: firm head, narrow neck, flat wings, and small sewn details added after the pose is set. Make the head and body first, then pin all four wings before any permanent seam. That single check prevents most balance problems. Save the project image to Pinterest, post the finished bear on Instagram, and tag it with #FlutterBearAmigurumi. For the next version, test one change only: larger antenna balls, extra wing dots, or a second flower. Which detail should carry more visual weight on this character: the pink wing border or the lavender antennae?
